
Coastal Geomorphology: An Introduction, 2nd Edition
by Eric Bird (Univ. of Melbourne, Australia)Rent Textbook
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Summary
Table of Contents
Preface to the 2nd edition | |
Acknowledgements | |
Introduction | |
Coastal geomorphology | |
Terminology | |
Ancient coastlines | |
Coastline morphology | |
Coastline length | |
Coastal evolution | |
Changing coastlines | |
Summary | |
Coastal processes | |
Introduction | |
Waves | |
Ocean swell | |
Storm waves | |
Nearshore waves | |
Wave refraction | |
Wave energy | |
Breaking waves | |
Rip currents | |
Wave currents | |
Dominant waves | |
High, moderate and low wave energy coasts | |
Tides | |
Tidal currents | |
Tidal environments | |
Tidal bores | |
Tide-dominated coasts | |
Storm surges | |
Tsunamis | |
Other giant waves | |
Currents | |
Ocean currents | |
Wind-driven currents | |
River-mouth currents | |
Effects of currents | |
Nearshore water circulation | |
Wind action | |
Other processes | |
Modelling coastal processes | |
Summary | |
Land and sea level changes | |
Introduction | |
Mean sea level | |
Causes of sea level change | |
Eustatic movements of sea level | |
Steric changes | |
Sedimentation | |
Tectonic movements | |
Measuring changes of level | |
Correlation and dating of former coastlines | |
Emerged coastlines | |
Submerged coastlines | |
Sea level variations | |
Late Quaternary sea level changes | |
Modern sea level changes | |
Tide gauge records | |
Geodetic surveys | |
Biological indicators | |
Recent changes of land and sea level | |
Future sea level changes | |
Summary | |
Cliffs | |
Introduction | |
Cliff evolution | |
Cliff morphology | |
Cliff profiles | |
Coastal bluffs | |
Slope-over-wall profiles | |
Cliff weathering in cold climates | |
Ice cliffs | |
Cliffs and bluffs on humid tropical coasts | |
Cliff dissection | |
Caves | |
Blowholes | |
Coastal gorges | |
Natural arches | |
Stacks | |
Coastal valleys | |
Hinterland topography | |
Outlines in plan of cliffed coasts | |
Coastal landslides | |
Cliff falls | |
Rates of cliff recession | |
Summary | |
Shore platforms | |
Shore processes | |
Shore abrasion | |
Weathering on the shore | |
Solution processes on the shore | |
Bioerosion on the shore | |
Frost shattering on the shore | |
Induration on the shore | |
Shore platforms | |
Seaward-sloping shore platforms | |
Structural shore platforms | |
Subhorizontal high tide shore platforms | |
Subhorizontal low tide shore platforms | |
Strandflats | |
Rocky and boulder-strewn shores | |
Plunging cliffs | |
Summary | |
Beaches | |
Introduction | |
Beach sediments | |
Evolution of beaches | |
Provenance of beach sediments | |
Beaches supplied with fluvial sediment | |
Beaches supplied from eroding cliffs and foreshores | |
Beaches supplied with sediment from the sea floor | |
Beaches supplied with wind-blown sand | |
Beaches made or modified by human activities | |
Beaches of mixed origin | |
Relict beaches | |
Weathering of beach material | |
Beaches on cold coasts | |
Beach rock | |
Nearshore processes | |
Beach morphology | |
Beach outlines in plan | |
Equilibrium beach plans | |
Beach outlines in profile | |
Cut and fill | |
Sweep zone | |
Beach gradient and sediment size | |
Upper and lower beach | |
Beach stratification | |
Beach berms | |
Beach cusps | |
Wind action on beaches | |
Downwashing | |
Response to tidal oscillations | |
Equilibrium beach profiles | |
Eroding and prograding beach profiles | |
Beach morphodynamics and beach states | |
Use of models | |
Beach compartments | |
Beach budgets | |
Tracing beach sediment flow | |
Lateral grading | |
Prograding beaches | |
Beach ridges | |
Cheniers | |
Beach lobes | |
Summary | |
Beach erosion | |
Introduction | |
Submergence and increased wave attack | |
Reduction of fluvial sediment supply | |
Reduction in sediment supply from cliffs | |
Reduction of sand supply from inland dunes | |
Reduction of sediment supply from the sea floor | |
Extraction of sand and shingle from the beach | |
Increased wave energy | |
Interception of longshore drifting by breakwaters | |
A change in the angle of incidence of waves | |
Intensification of obliquely incident wave attack | |
Increased losses of beach sediment to the backshore | |
Increased storminess | |
Attrition of beach material | |
Beach weathering | |
Increased scour by wave reflection from a sea wall | |
Migration of beach lobes | |
A rise in the beach water table | |
Removal of beach material by runoff | |
Diminished tide range | |
Abrasion by driftwood | |
Removal of a sea ice fringe | |
The multiple causes of beach erosion | |
Effects of artificial structures on beaches | |
Beach nourishment | |
Summary | |
Spits, barriers and bars | |
Introduction | |
Spits | |
Paired spits | |
Trailing and flying spits | |
Tombolos | |
Cuspate and lobate spits | |
Cuspate and lobate forelands | |
Coastal barriers and barrier islands | |
Intertidal sandflats | |
Bars and troughs | |
Sand shoals | |
Ripples | |
Sandstone reefs | |
Summary | |
Coastal dunes | |
Introduction | |
Foredunes | |
Backshore cliffing of dunes | |
Parallel dunes | |
Blow-outs and parabolic dunes | |
Transgressive dunes | |
Cliff-top dunes | |
Dunes on shingle | |
Rates of dune movement | |
Dune calcarenite | |
Machair | |
Coastal dunes in the humid tropics | |
Old and new dunes | |
Dune sandrock | |
Dune lakes | |
Summary | |
Intertidal wetlands | |
Introduction | |
Intertidal morphology | |
Sources of intertidal sediments | |
Mudflats | |
Intertidal vegetation | |
Sea-grass beds | |
Salt marshes | |
Evolution of a salt marsh | |
Salt marsh terraces | |
Seaward margins of salt marshes | |
Salt marsh creeks | |
Salt pans | |
The Spartina story | |
Mangroves | |
Mangroves and intertidal morphology | |
Seaward margins of mangroves | |
Freshwater swamps | |
Summary | |
Estuaries and lagoons | |
Introduction | |
Rias | |
Fiords | |
Fiards | |
Calanques | |
Sharms and sebkhas | |
Estuaries | |
Evolution of an estuary | |
Estuarine channels | |
Estuarine sediments | |
Tidal deltas and thresholds | |
Estuary shores | |
Estuarine marshes and swamps | |
Coastal lagoons | |
Lagoon entrances | |
Tides and salinity in lagoons | |
Evolution of coastal lagoons | |
Rounding and segmentation | |
Swamp encroachment | |
Lagoon configuration | |
Summary | |
Deltas | |
Introduction | |
Delta components | |
Deltaic processes | |
The Mississippi delta | |
Delta outlines | |
Wave-dominated deltas | |
Tide-dominated deltas | |
Effects of nearshore currents | |
Deltas in cold regions | |
Delta evolution | |
Delta shores | |
Summary | |
Coral and algal reefs | |
Introduction | |
Coral reefs | |
Origin of coral reefs | |
Rates of growth | |
Fringing reefs | |
Barrier reefs | |
Atolls | |
Emerged coral reefs | |
Islands on coral reef platforms | |
Algal and other biogenic reefs | |
Summary | |
Future coasts | |
Introduction | |
Greenhouse effect and sea level rise | |
General effects of a rising sea level | |
Effects of a changing climate | |
Effects on cliffs and shore platforms | |
Effects on beaches, spits and barriers | |
Evidence from past marine transgressions | |
The future of beaches | |
Effects on coastal dunes | |
Effects on intertidal wetlands | |
Effects on estuaries and lagoons | |
Effects on deltaic coasts | |
Effects on coral and algal reefs | |
Conclusion | |
Summary | |
References | |
Reference Citations - Index to Text | |
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