Coastal Geomorphology: An Introduction, 2nd Edition

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Format: eBook
Pub. Date: 2008-04-01
Publisher(s): Wiley
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Summary

Coastal Geomorphology, Second Editionis a comprehensive and systematic introduction to this subject and demonstrates the dynamic nature of coastal landforms, providing a background for analytical planning and management strategies in coastal areas that are subject to continuing changes. This introductory textbook has been completely revised and updated, and is accompanied by a website which provides additional illustrations, global examples, case-studies and more detailed and advanced information on topics referenced in the book, together with explanations of terminology, annotated references and research material.

Table of Contents

Preface to the 2nd edition
Acknowledgements
Introduction
Coastal geomorphology
Terminology
Ancient coastlines
Coastline morphology
Coastline length
Coastal evolution
Changing coastlines
Summary
Coastal processes
Introduction
Waves
Ocean swell
Storm waves
Nearshore waves
Wave refraction
Wave energy
Breaking waves
Rip currents
Wave currents
Dominant waves
High, moderate and low wave energy coasts
Tides
Tidal currents
Tidal environments
Tidal bores
Tide-dominated coasts
Storm surges
Tsunamis
Other giant waves
Currents
Ocean currents
Wind-driven currents
River-mouth currents
Effects of currents
Nearshore water circulation
Wind action
Other processes
Modelling coastal processes
Summary
Land and sea level changes
Introduction
Mean sea level
Causes of sea level change
Eustatic movements of sea level
Steric changes
Sedimentation
Tectonic movements
Measuring changes of level
Correlation and dating of former coastlines
Emerged coastlines
Submerged coastlines
Sea level variations
Late Quaternary sea level changes
Modern sea level changes
Tide gauge records
Geodetic surveys
Biological indicators
Recent changes of land and sea level
Future sea level changes
Summary
Cliffs
Introduction
Cliff evolution
Cliff morphology
Cliff profiles
Coastal bluffs
Slope-over-wall profiles
Cliff weathering in cold climates
Ice cliffs
Cliffs and bluffs on humid tropical coasts
Cliff dissection
Caves
Blowholes
Coastal gorges
Natural arches
Stacks
Coastal valleys
Hinterland topography
Outlines in plan of cliffed coasts
Coastal landslides
Cliff falls
Rates of cliff recession
Summary
Shore platforms
Shore processes
Shore abrasion
Weathering on the shore
Solution processes on the shore
Bioerosion on the shore
Frost shattering on the shore
Induration on the shore
Shore platforms
Seaward-sloping shore platforms
Structural shore platforms
Subhorizontal high tide shore platforms
Subhorizontal low tide shore platforms
Strandflats
Rocky and boulder-strewn shores
Plunging cliffs
Summary
Beaches
Introduction
Beach sediments
Evolution of beaches
Provenance of beach sediments
Beaches supplied with fluvial sediment
Beaches supplied from eroding cliffs and foreshores
Beaches supplied with sediment from the sea floor
Beaches supplied with wind-blown sand
Beaches made or modified by human activities
Beaches of mixed origin
Relict beaches
Weathering of beach material
Beaches on cold coasts
Beach rock
Nearshore processes
Beach morphology
Beach outlines in plan
Equilibrium beach plans
Beach outlines in profile
Cut and fill
Sweep zone
Beach gradient and sediment size
Upper and lower beach
Beach stratification
Beach berms
Beach cusps
Wind action on beaches
Downwashing
Response to tidal oscillations
Equilibrium beach profiles
Eroding and prograding beach profiles
Beach morphodynamics and beach states
Use of models
Beach compartments
Beach budgets
Tracing beach sediment flow
Lateral grading
Prograding beaches
Beach ridges
Cheniers
Beach lobes
Summary
Beach erosion
Introduction
Submergence and increased wave attack
Reduction of fluvial sediment supply
Reduction in sediment supply from cliffs
Reduction of sand supply from inland dunes
Reduction of sediment supply from the sea floor
Extraction of sand and shingle from the beach
Increased wave energy
Interception of longshore drifting by breakwaters
A change in the angle of incidence of waves
Intensification of obliquely incident wave attack
Increased losses of beach sediment to the backshore
Increased storminess
Attrition of beach material
Beach weathering
Increased scour by wave reflection from a sea wall
Migration of beach lobes
A rise in the beach water table
Removal of beach material by runoff
Diminished tide range
Abrasion by driftwood
Removal of a sea ice fringe
The multiple causes of beach erosion
Effects of artificial structures on beaches
Beach nourishment
Summary
Spits, barriers and bars
Introduction
Spits
Paired spits
Trailing and flying spits
Tombolos
Cuspate and lobate spits
Cuspate and lobate forelands
Coastal barriers and barrier islands
Intertidal sandflats
Bars and troughs
Sand shoals
Ripples
Sandstone reefs
Summary
Coastal dunes
Introduction
Foredunes
Backshore cliffing of dunes
Parallel dunes
Blow-outs and parabolic dunes
Transgressive dunes
Cliff-top dunes
Dunes on shingle
Rates of dune movement
Dune calcarenite
Machair
Coastal dunes in the humid tropics
Old and new dunes
Dune sandrock
Dune lakes
Summary
Intertidal wetlands
Introduction
Intertidal morphology
Sources of intertidal sediments
Mudflats
Intertidal vegetation
Sea-grass beds
Salt marshes
Evolution of a salt marsh
Salt marsh terraces
Seaward margins of salt marshes
Salt marsh creeks
Salt pans
The Spartina story
Mangroves
Mangroves and intertidal morphology
Seaward margins of mangroves
Freshwater swamps
Summary
Estuaries and lagoons
Introduction
Rias
Fiords
Fiards
Calanques
Sharms and sebkhas
Estuaries
Evolution of an estuary
Estuarine channels
Estuarine sediments
Tidal deltas and thresholds
Estuary shores
Estuarine marshes and swamps
Coastal lagoons
Lagoon entrances
Tides and salinity in lagoons
Evolution of coastal lagoons
Rounding and segmentation
Swamp encroachment
Lagoon configuration
Summary
Deltas
Introduction
Delta components
Deltaic processes
The Mississippi delta
Delta outlines
Wave-dominated deltas
Tide-dominated deltas
Effects of nearshore currents
Deltas in cold regions
Delta evolution
Delta shores
Summary
Coral and algal reefs
Introduction
Coral reefs
Origin of coral reefs
Rates of growth
Fringing reefs
Barrier reefs
Atolls
Emerged coral reefs
Islands on coral reef platforms
Algal and other biogenic reefs
Summary
Future coasts
Introduction
Greenhouse effect and sea level rise
General effects of a rising sea level
Effects of a changing climate
Effects on cliffs and shore platforms
Effects on beaches, spits and barriers
Evidence from past marine transgressions
The future of beaches
Effects on coastal dunes
Effects on intertidal wetlands
Effects on estuaries and lagoons
Effects on deltaic coasts
Effects on coral and algal reefs
Conclusion
Summary
References
Reference Citations - Index to Text
Table of Contents provided by Publisher. All Rights Reserved.

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