Dress in the Middle Ages

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Format: Trade Paper
Pub. Date: 2000-08-11
Publisher(s): Yale University Press
List Price: $21.00

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Summary

This absorbing of medieval clothing survey makes an important and unique contribution to our understanding of the cultural and social conditions of western Europe in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. Drawing on paintings and sculpture, documents and literature, surviving clothing, textiles, jewelry, and armor, Francoise Piponnier and Perrine Mane show that garments and accessories of the Middle Ages reveal much about life and society of the time.

Author Biography

Francoise Piponnier is director of studies at the Ecole des Hautes Etudes en Sciences Sociales in Paris Perrine Mane is head of research at the Centre Nationale des Recherches Scientifiques in Paris

Table of Contents

Foreword vii
Part I Approaches to Medieval Costume
Sources and Applications
3(11)
True or False? Art as Witness to an Age
3(4)
From Romance to Account Book
7(2)
Archaeology, the Material Evidence
9(5)
Materials
14(13)
Wool and Colours
14(5)
Silk from the East, Silk from the West
19(3)
Vegetable Fibres
22(1)
Animal Skins
23(2)
Metal
25(2)
The Acquisition of Clothing
27(12)
Domestic Activities
27(1)
Making Clothes to Measure
28(4)
Ready-made Clothing
32(1)
Gifts and Hand-outs: New and Old
33(6)
Part II Development and Social Groupings
The History of Working-Class Clothing
39(16)
The Elements of Costume
40(4)
Adapting to Climatic Conditions
44(2)
The Birth of Working Clothes
46(9)
Kings and Warriors: The Ruling Classes and their Fashions
55(22)
Warriors and the Mirage of the Mediterranean World
57(1)
Medieval Classicism
58(3)
The Development of Armour
61(2)
The Invention of Modern Masculine Dress
63(3)
Court Fashions and Figures
66(4)
Fabrics and Colours
70(7)
The Diffusion and Regulation of Fashion
77(22)
From Masculine to Feminine Fashion
77(4)
Economy and Economics
81(2)
Social Order, Moral Order and the Regulation of Appearances
83(3)
Town Doublets and Country Doublets
86(3)
The Geography of Styles
89(10)
Part III Signs and Signifiers
The Cycles of Life
99(15)
The Nude and the Naked
99(4)
The Ages of Life
103(5)
Rites of Passage
108(6)
Clothes as Identification Markers
114(28)
The Outward Expression of Dignity
114(12)
Renunciation
126(5)
Signs of Recognition
131(4)
Exclusion and Discrimination
135(7)
Beyond Society's Limits
142(12)
Carnivals and Popular Entertainment
142(2)
Fancy Dress and Courtly Games
144(2)
From the Juggler to the King's Fool
146(3)
Processions and Parades
149(3)
Towards Theatrical Costume
152(2)
Conclusion 154(3)
Bibliography 157(7)
Glossary 164

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