Kaffeehaus : Exquisite Desserts from the Classic Cafes of Vienna, Budapest, and Prague

by
Edition: 1st
Format: Hardcover
Pub. Date: 2002-02-01
Publisher(s): Clarkson Potter
List Price: $37.50

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Summary

Transporting readers to three of the most romantic cities in the world, this beautiful book brings to life their old-world charms and architectural gems, and presents 150 impeccable recipes for recreating their legendary cakes and pastries in the home kitchen. Vienna, Budapest, and Prague have a special hold on our imaginations, conjuring up a sense of timeless elegance, of historical and cultural richesand of tables laden with the most extraordinary desserts imaginable. Rick Rodgers explores all these treasures in Kaffeehaus, a cook's tour enhanced with stunning full-color photographs. Rodgers visits such culinary landmarks as Cafe Slavia in Prague and Cafe Sperl in Vienna, sampling apple strudel, the Emperor's pancakes, hot chocolate, and other classics and gathering the recipes (and secrets) of master bakers. With an attention to detail developed through years of teaching, he explains how to make the perfect accompaniments to a cup of coffee, as well as spectacular endings to elegant meals. Filled with food facts and lore (from when coffee first came to Vienna to the great Sachertorte controversy), Kaffeehaus is a treat for armchair travelers and cooks alike.

Table of Contents

Introduction xi
Basic Batters, Doughs, Kings & Glazes
1(20)
A Demitasse of History
2(3)
Warm-Method Sponge Cake
5(2)
Cold-Method Sponge Cake
7(1)
Chocolate Sponge Cake
8(1)
Viennese Sweet Yeast Dough
8(5)
Demel: Sugar Baker to the Empire
9(1)
The Story Behind Viennese Sweet Yeast Dough
10(3)
Puff Pastry
13(1)
Cream Puff Dough
14(1)
Short Crust Dough
15(1)
Faux Fondant Icing
15(1)
Chocolate Glaze
16(1)
Apricot Glaze
16(2)
Warm Chocolate Sauce
18(1)
Vanilla Sauce
18(1)
Meringue Cream
18(1)
Sweetened Whipped Cream
19(2)
Simple Cakes
21(28)
Coffee: Common Man's Gold
22(2)
Farmer's Cheesecake
24(2)
Apricot Tart
26(1)
Apricot Coffee Cake
26(1)
Cherry-Almond Coffee Cake
27(1)
Chocolate ``Saddle of Venison'' Cake
28(3)
The Story Behind Burgtheatertorte
30(1)
Chocolate-Orange Cake
31(2)
Poppy Seed Gugelhupf
33(1)
Banana Gugelhupf
33(1)
Marble Gugelhupf
34(1)
Chestnut Slices
35(1)
Bishop's Fruit-and-Chocolate Tea Cake
36(2)
Viennese Pound Cake
38(1)
Plum Squares
38(1)
Flourless Poppy Seed Cake
39(1)
Blueberry Cream Roulade
40(2)
Cafe Slavia
41(1)
Chocolate-Cherry Roulade
42(2)
Cafe Dommayer
43(1)
Hazelnut Roulade With Mocha Cream
44(2)
Walnut Crown Cake
46(1)
Zucchini Slices With Chocolate Glaze
47(2)
Fancy Cakes
49(28)
The Classic Kaffeehaus
51(1)
Brown Linzertorte
52(2)
The Story Behind Linzertorte
54(1)
Ladyfinger Torte With rum Cream
54(2)
Punch Cake
56(1)
Orange Torte With Orange Cream Frosting
57(1)
Leschanz's Chocolate Mousse Cake
58(1)
Sachertorte
59(3)
The Story Behind Sachertorte
60(2)
Leschanz's Sachertorte
62(2)
Meringue Shell With Strawberries and Cream
64(2)
The Story Behind Spanische Windtorte
64(2)
Walnut Torte With Walnut-Custard Buttercream
66(1)
Strawberry Cream Torte
67(2)
Chocolate-Almond Torte
69(1)
Raspberry Yogurt Torte
70(3)
The Story Behind Dobos Torte
71(2)
Dobos Torte
73(1)
Chocolate-Cherry Mousse Cake
74(3)
Strudels
77(12)
Strudel Dough
78(2)
Apple Strudel
80(2)
Sour Cherry Strudel
82(1)
Grape Strudel With Weinchaudeau
82(2)
Filo Facts
83(1)
Warm ``Milk-Cream'' Strudel With Vanilla Sauce
84(2)
Pear Strudel With Puff Pastry
86(1)
Farmer's Cheese and Raisin Filo Strudel
86(3)
Sweet Yeast Breads
89(24)
Coffee in Three-Quarter Time
91(1)
Brioche Braid
92(2)
Cheese-Filled Sweet Rolls
94(1)
Viennese Jam Rolls
95(1)
Viennese Crescent Rolls
96(2)
The Story Behind Kipferln
97(1)
Currant and Hazelnut Snails
98(1)
Golden Dumplings
99(1)
Dalmatian Four-Flavor Kolacky
100(2)
Yeast Gugelhupf
102(2)
The Story Behind Gugelhupf
103(1)
Yeast Plum Squares
104(4)
The Municipal House
104(3)
Oberlaa: The Whipped Cream Diet
107(1)
Christmas Sweet Bread
108(2)
Hungarian Walnut Roulades
110(3)
``Slices'' & Other Individual Desserts
113(28)
The Rise of the Kaffeehaus
114(2)
Apple, Walnut, and Poppy Seed Bars
116(2)
Tokaji
118(1)
Apple Squares
118(1)
Apples in Pastry Robes
119(2)
Berry Meringue Slices
121(1)
Hungarian Chocolate Mousse Squares
122(1)
The Story Behind Rigo Jancsi
123(1)
Coffee Eclairs
123(1)
Chocolate-Banana Slices
124(2)
Puff Pastry Cornets With Whipped Cream
126(1)
The Story Behind Indianerkrapfen
127(1)
Chocolate-Covered ``Indian'' Cupcakes
127(3)
The Cafe New York
129(1)
The Story Behind Esterhazyschnitten
130(1)
Nut Meringue Slices
130(3)
The Story Behind Gerbeaud Slices
132(1)
Gerbeaud Slices
133(1)
Puff Pastry Cream Slices With Coffee Icing
134(2)
Meringue and Ladyfinger Slices
136(2)
Hungarian Flaky Scones
138(3)
Cookies & Doughnuts
141(16)
Ischl Tartlets
142(3)
When a Coffeehouse Is Not a Coffeehouse
143(2)
Chocolate-Almond Macaroons
145(1)
Coconut Macaroons
146(1)
Aida
146(1)
Chestnut ``Potatoes''
147(1)
Linzer ``Eyes''
148(1)
Vanilla Crescents
149(1)
Walnut Crescent Cookies From Pozsony
150(1)
Thumbprint Cookies
151(1)
Mardis Gras Doughnuts
152(3)
The Story Behind Faschingkrapfen
154(1)
Crullers With Rum Glaze
155(2)
Pancakes & Sweet Omelets
157(12)
The Fall and Rebirth of the Kaffeehaus
158(2)
Basic Crepes
160(1)
Gundel-Style Crepes
160(1)
Jam-Filled Crepes
161(1)
The Emperor's Pancake
162(1)
The Story Behind Kaiserschmarren
162(1)
Cheese-Filled Crepes
163(1)
Sour Cream Mini-Pancakes
164(2)
Salzburg Dessert Souffle
166(1)
Sweet Fruit Omelet
166(3)
The Story Behind Stefania-Omelette
167(2)
Sweet Dumplings & Noodles
169(8)
Flour or Sugar? Hot or Cold?
171(1)
Farmer's Cheese and Strawberry Dumplings
172(2)
Farmer's Cheese Dumplings With ``Roasted'' Plums
174(1)
Potato Noodles With Sweet Poppy Seeds
174(1)
Prune Pockets
175(2)
Hot & Cold Puddings
177(12)
Croissant and Apple Pudding
178(2)
Coffee, Vienna-Style
179(1)
Chocolate-Cream ``Dumplings''
180(2)
Molded Rice Pudding With Raspberries
182(1)
The Story Behind Reis Trauttmansdorff
183(1)
Steamed Chocolate Pudding
183(2)
Warm Rice Pudding With Cherries
185(1)
Warm Walnut Puddings
186(1)
Viennese-Style Zabaglione With Raspberries
187(2)
Hot & Cold Beverages
189(11)
The Story Behind Maria Theresia
192(1)
Hot Coffee With Orange Liqueur
192(3)
Coffee, Tea, and Chocolate
194(1)
Hot Rum Punch
195(1)
Mulled ``Glow'' Wine
195(2)
Fruit and Wine Punch
197(1)
Real Hot Chocolate
197(1)
Hot Spiced Tea
197(3)
The Coffee Menu
198(2)
Glossary of Ingredients, Equipment & Techniques 200(17)
A Personal Coffeehouse Guide 217(8)
Mail-Order Sources 225(2)
Bibliography 227(1)
Index 228

Excerpts

Hungary's national chocolate dessert, Rigó Jancsi consists of squares of cocoa mousse sandwiched between chocolate cake and covered with a shiny chocolate glaze.

CAKE
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons Dutch-processed cocoa powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons milk
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 large eggs, at room temperature
2/3 cup sugar
FILLING
2 tablespoons golden rum or water
1 1/2 teaspoons unflavored powdered gelatin
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup confectioners' sugar
1/4 cup Dutch-processed cocoa powder
2 cups heavy cream

GLAZE
1/4 cup hot water
3 ounces high-quality semisweet chocolate, finely chopped
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature

1. To make the cake: Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 350°F. Lightly butter a 15 x 11-inch jelly roll pan, and line the bottom and sides with parchment or wax paper. (Cut slashes in the corners of the paper to help them fold neatly.) Lightly butter the paper.

2. Sift the flour, cocoa, and salt together into a bowl. Mix the milk, oil, and vanilla in a measuring cup.

3. Crack the eggs into a medium bowl and add the sugar. Using an electric mixer on high speed, beat until very light in color and texture, about 2 minutes. Sift half of the flour mixture over the eggs and fold in. Fold in half of the milk mixture. Repeat with the remaining flour and milk mixtures. Spread evenly in the pan, being sure the batter fills the corners.

4. Bake until the cake springs back when pressed in the center, about 15 minutes. Cool for 5 minutes on a large wire rack. Invert onto the rack and peel off the paper. Cool completely.

5. To make the filling: Pour the rum into a small bowl and sprinkle with the gelatin. Set aside for 5 minutes. Place the bowl in a skillet of gently simmering water. Using a small rubber spatula, stir constantly until the gelatin is completely dissolved, being sure to wipe down any undissolved gelatin on the sides of the bowl. Remove the bowl from the water, stir in the vanilla, and set aside to cool slightly.

6. In a bowl, combine the confectioner's sugar and cocoa. In a chilled medium bowl, beat the cream until it just begins to thicken. Sift the cocoa mixture into the cream and beat until barely stiff. Stir about one third of the whipped cream into the gelatin mixture, then beat back into the cream, beating until the filling is very stiff. (But do not overbeat, or it will separate.)

7. Cut the cake into two 7 1/2-inch-wide pieces. Place one cake on a baking sheet. Spread all of the filling on the cake in a thick layer, smoothing the sides. Refrigerate while making the glaze.

8. To make the glaze: Combine the water and chocolate in a small saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula, until the chocolate is almost melted. Remove from the heat and let stand, stirring occasionally, until the chocolate is completely melted. Add the butter and stir until melted and combined. Set aside to thicken and cool slightly.

9. Place the remaining cake layer, smooth side up, on a wire rack set over a jelly roll pan. Pour all of the glaze on top of the cake. Using a metal spatula, smooth and coax the glaze over the sides of the cake. Refrigerate until the glaze is set, about 15 minutes.

10. Using a thin sharp knife rinsed under hot water between cuts, cut the glazed cake into 9 rectangles. Following their original positions, arrange the rectangles on top of the filling. Refrigerate until the filling is set, about 1 hour. Cut between the rectangles to make individual servings. Serve chilled.

MAKE AHEAD

The mousse squares can be prepared up to 2 days ahead and stored under a cake dome in the refrigerator.

Excerpted from Kaffeehaus: Exquisite Desserts from the Classic Cafes of Vienna, Budapest, and Prague by Rick Rodgers
All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.

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